Those numbers, the ones you see on your Petzl carabiners mean something here’s what it is and it depends on the year it was manufactured.
The number on this Gri Gri reads 11 159 FI 7996. What does this mean?
The first 5 digits represent the year 2011, and the 159th day of 2011. The letters indicate the inspector’s initials (Frankie Independence, for example). The last 3-4 numbers are the Incrementation, or individual product number. That means this Gri Gri was manufactured on the 159th day of 2011, was inspected by Frankie Independence, and it’s specific number is 7996. It makes perfect sense now, right?
This blue Hera Attache reads 16081UM0275. This carabiner was manufactured on the 81st day of 2016, inspected by someone with the initials UM and it’s the 275th in the run.
This Reverso has a number 16302QA0123. See if you can decipher it.
Now, in late 2016, Petzl changed it’s number coding. This AM’d S has a code of: 17E0082751 091. Manufactured in May (E) 2017, in batch 82751, and it’s the 91st in the run. The month key may throw you off. A is January, B February, C March, D April, E May and so on.
Now for today’ jam, a little Arch Enemy. We are LEGION.
What do you think? Will winter arrive after thanksgiving? We hope so. It’s our favorite time of year.
Fun Buttress Climbing
So that said, it’s time to make your winter reservations. December has plenty of available dates. December 18 and 19 are currently in the hot seat. If you book either of those days, I’ll give you 10% OFF. Climbs in Huntington Ravine are typically in great shape then. Too, climbs at Frankenstien and Mt Willard or even the Black Dike can be in great shape then. Mid week reservations help limit the crowds.
Tech Tip: The Sum of All Fears
We’ve often heard that anchors are the sum of their parts. For example, a 10 kN cam, a 7kN nut and a 6kN Tri cam make up a combined strength 23kN anchor. This is false.
The AAC has published an article busting the myths of Summative Anchoring.
Here’s the tip background: When an anchor gets loaded it’s shortest leg typically carries the brunt of the load. Testing shows that it doesn’t really matter if the anchor is built in a pre equalized fashion or a self equalizing system like the Quad. Keep in mind that when anchors fail, they fail in sequence. The weakest component first, then the second, and finally the with enough cumulative force generation, the last component will also fail.
The Tip: Build your anchors with a strong piece in sound stone. See if that big string piece is in good rock. This piece will likely need to do the majority of the work load in the anchor. DO strive to create distribution in the anchor system.
Book those winter dates, sharpen those picks, and keep the rock shoes out. We all know that in Southern New England, half day rock climbs are regularly possible on sunny days in the right spots.
Today’s Musical Whip: the Stay Hungry Tour
I know this topic is dear to many in the conservation and climbing preservation circles. However, as climbing becomes more popular, we, as climbers need to be more careful in how we treat our precious resources. As a colleague recently reminded us, the crags are not a park. The crags are frequently on private property, or in a town or state park or forest without express acknowledgement that climbing is allowed.
As someone who spends 250 days a year at the crags, or in the bigger mountains, I have a few suggestions on what you can do to protect the resource for years to come.
I propose these CRAG ETHICS:
- Volume Control. Yesterday, at a Connecticut crag, a climbing party was audibly very loud. This crag is above a housing development, and the cliff is a sounding board. The neighbors don’t want to hear you. Trust me. Your best solution is to be quiet, leave the bluetooth speakers at home, and only be loud when using your belay commands. The bottom line is that loud behavior is distracting and disruptive. In fact it was overwhelming. Loud behavior also can create unsafe situations and make for uncomfortable situations for some climbers. I’m not saying don’t talk and laugh, but at some point, we need to be more aware. Climbing is social and fun but we need to enjoy our friends responsibly.
- Crag dogs. 2 days in a row, I have seen well-behaved dogs. Sweet! But……normally, dogs digs holes, knock over their water bowl, and barks uncontrollably while you are up on the cliff. I also don’t want to be cornered or snarled at by your pet. I like dogs, I grew up with them, but they scare some people. Plus, I have yet to see a crag that doesn’t have broken glass at the bottom, and this poses a significant risk to rover.
- Hanging Top Ropes & Hogging routes. When you and your friends finish climbing a route, especially a 3 star climb that others wish to do, consider moving your top ropes. The crags are currently available for us to share and use, and on busy days you can bet that other are hoping to do these climbs too. Please don’t bring every rope you own and set them up. This is also hogging. Too, some climbers want to lead and leaving TRs unattended for hours on end is not helpful. Do your climb, and move on to another. Treating the crag like an outdoor gym is bad for everyone.
- Hammocks. Please, your hammock is in the way. Actually, it’s in everyone’s way. You shouldn’t be belaying from it either. Stance and positioning is vital to belaying. If you need a nap, the cliff isn’t the best place for it. Hammocks are better suited to backyards. Your backpack will be lighter too. Please leave your hammock at home.
- Anchoring & Edge Security. I am the pot calling the kettle black here. However, please consider attaching yourself to a rope while you do your top rope rigging. I have been caught telling people that they only get to fall off from the top a cliff once in their lifetime. Please use care. Death and injury get climbing areas closed. If you don’t already know how to build sound climbing anchors or how to protect yourself at the edge, seek qualified instruction and hire an AMGA Certified Guide or Instructor to help you out. Clubs and social groups aren’t giving you the best tools or skills.
- Durability. Think deeply about what you are anchoring to. Some trees will be more durable than the soft and protected pitch pines. Please do not pull rappel ropes around trees. Please do not walk around the bases of trees. Soil compaction is a serious problem. Also, build gear anchors when available. It saves the trees and is just as strong. Utilize fixed protection when and where available. Stand and travel on durable surfaces. Get your packs out of the trail.
- Drones. on 3 occasions in the past year I have had drones ‘stalk’ me while I was climbing. Once on Dracula, once on Carey Corner, and once on Black Lung/Refuse. Listen, you don’t have my permission to take my picture, and the noise is annoying. If your drone crashes into me while I’m clinging on by my fingernails, the gloves are going to come off. Too, cliffs are known nesting areas for endangered raptors. You’re harassing wildlife. Remember, Ragged Mountain has a regulation regarding aircraft, and they’re not allowed. While I’ve thrown snowballs at drones during the winter, I’d rather treat them like clay pigeons. PULL!
- Trash. Pack out your butts, and for heavens sake, you wads of tape. Don’t forget your Red Bull cans.
- Join and Support Your local Access Fund Affiliate and LCO. These are the groups keeping your climbing areas open and are doing damage control.
Bottom Line: Be an Upstander, not and Bystander.
I’ve been back from the Tetons for a few days. Here are a few of my favorite images from the summer. Get ready, and start planning now for 2018.
The top of Bonney Pass at Zero Dark Thirty
Shivering next to Jeremy.
the Summit of Wyoming.
Monte high on the Symmetry Spire.
Training on the Watchtower.
Sometimes you gotta get up early.
Ready for the crux on the PG.
the Big City Mountaineers crew. Crushers!
From down parkas to t shirts!
This could be Steve Quinlan’s first foray into the internet. He does make a mean breakfast.
Rusty and Maggie, somewhere north of the Grand.
The top of the Drizzlehorn
Tom Adamns and I opt the Grand 13770′
The ever impressive area’s of Mt Moran.
Summit, Mt Moran
Heather and Devon give us the horns on Moran.
Since then, we’ve been out climbing with Marty and Peter, Annie and Sam. Then our regular annual Coast Guard programs started! Yikes!
Marty channelling his inner Jethro Tull
Aninie….Trying and not Flyin’
Sam’s first ever rappel. 40m!
Annie and her dad, Peter.
Off to the Gunks tomorrow and then our annual Paddle to Climb trip with Casi and her crew.
It’s always a fun time climbing with Casi and Kate. They bring their tickets and we climb very interesting things. The sheer athleticism they bring to the table in addition to their climbing skill means we get to push a little harder.